09/09/06, The Cuttings, Portland
People: Mark Harrison, Steve Wake and I
Weather: Mild, low-mid-20s, very windy
Massive hangover from the Company Party I’d been to the night before – but thats no excuse! 
On a high from last weekend in Switzerland, I was looking forward to The Cuttings. I’d been there for a look on August Bank Holiday Monday, and liked what I saw.
On a high from last weekend in Switzerland, I was looking forward to The Cuttings. I’d been there for a look on August Bank Holiday Monday, and liked what I saw. Routes
Three Fingers, 5+/6a (4 in the Rockfax 2005 Dorest guide)
At 4 in the guide, Three Fingers looked like a nice warmup. I wasn’t that keen to lead it what with the fuzzy head, but once I was past the first few moves I was enjoying myself. I mis-read the guide and actually did the start of Two Fingers, when I got to the first bolt and looked up, I decided the route to the right (Three Fingers) was more reasonble for my ability. Two bolts later, I was stumped. The move wasn’t that difficult, ok you have to trust to footwork to gain a steep mantleshelf but the exposure was the issue. Eventually after 4 half-hearted attempts, I bottled it. Mark gave it a good go, but eventually struggled at the same point, Steve managed to kneel on the ledge but didn’t have the guts to stand up. Not wanting to be beaten by a 4, I had another go; made the move copying Steve’s approach, and cliped the next bolt. The next move was even more exposed, and after about two mintues, I lowered off accepting defeat 
. When I got home I checked the Rockfax database, and there were about a dozen comments posted that a large hold had fallen, and it was now either a hard 5+ or easy 6a. I felt a bit better, but I want to do this; so a project for the tick list.
. When I got home I checked the Rockfax database, and there were about a dozen comments posted that a large hold had fallen, and it was now either a hard 5+ or easy 6a. I felt a bit better, but I want to do this; so a project for the tick list.The Ramp, 4+
The Cuttings were really busy, so the only easy climb we had the option of was The Ramp. 4+ in the guide didn’t raise any warning bells (all the routes in Rockfax Costa Blanca were over graded if anything, so it didn’t even cross my mind that the opposite might occur), but at mid-point the next move was above the bolt, under an overhang and I wasn’t happy with the holds (i.e. they weren’t massive jugs!), so I bottled. Mark and Steve did the same. We were feeling quite dejected by this time. We’d been there 90 minutes and failed twice.
Ok, this was the one. I said I wasn’t going to lead it as I was obviously jinxing the routes on the day. Mark went first and made good progress until the mid-point. Again, exposure got the best of him, then Steve, then me. Our tail was so far between our legs now, we could hardly walk. (Comments on the Rockfax d/b are mixed in opinion between 4+ and 5).
There were no 4′s free, and I was determined to tick at least one climb even if it was just some steps! Magical Mystery Tour was very polished, but a tick nevertheless. Mark and Steve also lead, using it for practice to thread the rope and lower off. Whilst we were climbing, someone decked out on We’re Only Placing Bolts for Nigel to our left. Fortunately it was a short fall (3m or so) and she wasn’t hurt.
Lessons for the day;
1. Don’t drink heavily before a day climbing (der!)
2. Check the grades online/in mini guide before going to the crag
3. Learn to spot the distances between bolts from the ground, so you’re able to see the exposed bit and make an informed decision
4. Get some guts and climb past bolts!
5. See number 4.
6 hours driving, one route ticked and three routes failed, not a good day. Time spent with friends, three new projects and some lessons learned, not a bad day.
More photos to follow.
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